Louisa's Altiplano Adventure!

All over

2006-03-08T13:50:00.000+11:00

My tour is over now - and I have two months in Brazil to explore and relax before returning to Australia! It has been a month and a half of amazing times, and words can't really describe the experiences I've had. Thanks for reading!

=LOUISA=

Carnaval Time!

2006-03-06T11:53:00.000+11:00

23rd Feb - 2 Mar

The past week has been a blur.

Last Thursday was our final journey on Frank, our truck, as we approached the spectacular Rio de Janeiro. There was a very happy vibe on board as we pumped up our favourite tunes which we have all come to love during this trip. We eagerly waited for the moment we could step out the doors and set foot in the city notorious for its night life, beaches, parties, music scene and beautiful people.

On our first night in Rio we enjoyed a buffet at a local restaurant near our hotel, the Granada. Huge posters on the walls informed us that Franz Ferdinand was playing at the aqua duct a couple of hours later. Unfortunately there were no tickets left but not everyone was dissuaded. A few people from the group went to listen from outside, while the rest of us went to check out the bars nearby.

We spontaneously decided to check out Ipanema beach by night. We ended up at a little bar called Lord Jim’s pub, where a covers band were providing the music for a laid back crowd rocking out to the likes of Pearl Jam, Eagle Eye Cherry, Nirvana and other such bands.

On Friday we went to Corcovado where we stood by the feet of Christ the Redeemer. I took photos from every angle, not wanting to miss a single detail of this intricately carved monument. I am in now way religious but this was one of the most spectacular sites I’ve seen yet. Net we went to Sugarloaf Mountain where we took cable cars to the top for breath taking view of Brazil. We saw the famous Copacobana and Ipanema beaches and many others spanning the coastline.

That night a 5minute walk from our hotel saw us to a set of arches spread across the street where the music was pumping. The street parties were off the hook, the Caipirinha’s were flowing, people were dancing in the streets and wherever you turned there were smiling faces ready for a big night out in Rio. I had my dancing shoes on ready and was not disappointed.

Saturday night was the Red and Black ball. Everyone in the group had made the effort to get decked out in their best, craziest outfits and we headed off for yet another all night party. It was wild. We walked in there to be greeted by the sounds of a live band and a crowd full of eager party-goers. As the wee hours of the morning drew closer, the party got wilder and I thought it in my best interests to evacuate before I collapsed from exhaustion.
Sunday night was the night everyone had been eagerly anticipating. A 20 minute walk from our hotel saw us to the Sambadrome. What a spectacle it was. We got there for 9 when the first samba school was coming through, and, equipped with a few beverages and a couple of Bob’s Burgers, I was ready for the show.

The samba schools were absolutely amazing. They had obviously put long hard hours into the designs for their floats, their costumes, their dance routines and general appearance as this was a competition that is taken very seriously. I sat there, unable to draw my eyes from the parade, marvelling over the colours, so many colours, swirling in front of me in time to the music, as the thousands of competitors danced on by.

It was 10.45pm and just when I thought this night could not possible get any better, the rain came. Pouring down on us by the bucket load everyone was drenched to the skin. This did not dampen spirits but in fact gave everyone the motivation to get up and dance harder than ever before, if not even just to keep warm. The vibe in the stands was that of complete exhilaration as people everywhere were gyrating to the music, together in one soggy, wet mass. It was a rain dance if ever there was one and I was in my element.

At 3am a group of us set off to take showers at our hotel before heading out to another club nearby to the street parties at the arches. I found a hip-hop club and rounded everyone up for an early morning dance. We didn’t leave until 6 in the morning. Trudging back to our hotel we sat in reception and watched Carnaval on television as the final schools finished their lap. 6.30 rolled around and breakfast was welcomed by ravenous party goers who were, by that stage, ready to eat our own arms off. At 7 I flopped into bed, knowing that nothing would wake me from the deep slumber I was about to reward myself with.

After 7 weeks on tour, having met many fantastic people and seen so many awesome sights all around South America, I am currently enjoying some quiet time on the beaches at Isla Grande which is 4 hours off the coast of Rio. It has been a fantastic trip and one I will never forget!

=LOUISA=

Foz do Iguaçu

2006-02-21T10:42:00.000+11:00

13th - 20th February

Over the past week I can honestly say I have seen some of the most amazing sights which have made a big impact for me on this trip. We entered into Paraguay at the beginning of last week to face 35 degree heat and a humidity that made you feel as if you could melt into your shoes. We camped in Trinidad before setting off for the Ybicuy National Park. We spent a couple of hours lying in the sun getting nice and brown then went for a dip at a small waterfall which was lovely.

Next we drove on to Asuncion, the capital of Paraguay, where there is lots of clothes shopping and electronic goods to be bought. I made a visit to the cemetery which was quite impressive as it was a mass of streets lined with tombs and vaults, each unique in its own way. Very interesting structures. Crossing from Paraguay to Brazil, the trip over the border was quite exhilarating for me. Brazil is the country I was born in. I had not been back since I was six months old so naturally I was in awe, trying to take everything in all at once.

The border crossing alone was a hectic hub bub of life. With motorbikes speeding past, cars honking and people milling all around I wondered if this was indicative of the fast paced life of Brazil.

When we arrived at our camp site in Foz do Iguaçu things seemed to settle down somewhat and I felt I was able to breathe again... Camping in Foz was a lot of fun as we were not the only ones with this destination as our temporary abode. We were sharing the campsite with one other Tucan truck, an SAS truck and a Dragon truck. The other Tucan group came and sat with us over dinner and we all got to know each other for the next couple of hours, dancing to music we were pumping out of our truck and drinking Caiporinhas concocted by the tour leaders for everyone to share. I had a lot of fun that night and was happy to make so many new friends during my first night in Brazil.

We spent a full day at Foz do Iguaçu. It was an absolutely breathtaking sight. Unfortunately it rained quite heavily on arrival and 34 of us all ran like bats out of hell through the torrential rain on our way to the speed boats which would take us remarkably close to the pounding torrents of water. The boat ride at the base of the falls was absolutely smashing with about 8 of us to a boat we were all unable to stop ourselves from yelling in excitement as we got disturbingly close to the white cascades. The rest of the day was spent walking the various trails and seeing the ´Devils Throat´, the most magnificent thing I’ve seen yet. I stood mesmerised, pleasantly cooled by a fine spray of water, occasionally pulling out my camera and then returning to my daze as the water had me transfixed.

Next stop was the bird park where I had a couple of close encounters with the wildlife. We walked all around taking photos of the beautiful birds in their large cages and some which were free to wander where ever they chose, including a toucan which politely posed for me, perched on a railing for the perfect photo. We were able to enter into an enclosure which housed the biggest blue parrots I have ever seen. I was wearing my toe ring at the time and had one parrot come after me, it seemed attracted by the silver and waddled quite hastily towards me with its beak opening and closing furiously. I yelled and jumped about while everyone else laughed at me for the spectacle I was making of myself... It was all good fun and I came out still with ten toes in tact so I was happy.

My next encounter came quite unexpectedly as I was walking down the footpath with a few others towards the exit when I tripped over something. It was a rather large, round turtle which had been randomly ambling along oblivious to the people walking around it. I felt sorry for the poor thing as I had given it quite a kick when I clumsily tripped over it. I leant down and patted it to make sure it was ok and it went on its merry way again.

In the afternoon we were directed to the helicopters which would take us over the falls for a magnificent birds eye view. Having never been in a chopper before I was a little anxious to be in this small aircraft hundreds of metres up in the air. I was pleasantly surprised to find it was quite comfortable and the flight itself was smooth. The view was amazing and I blocked everything out of my mind as we sailed through the sky, looking at the valleys and mountains far below.

The past few days have been spent camping in Curitiba and Bertioga. We are now in Paraty camping with 2 other Tucan trucks at the same site. Tomorrow we leave for a full day trip on a boat cruise around the bay. It is only a couple of days now until we will be in Rio and the vibe on the tour is that of excitement and anticipation for the biggest party in the world; Carnaval. We are all itching to get to Rio and in the meantime we will no doubt have many more adventures in between.

Until then I will be seeking out my best dancing shoes ready for the party of a life time.

=LOUISA=

2006-02-16T16:36:00.000+11:00

About to head into the Potosi mines

2006-02-16T16:32:00.000+11:00

Salar de Uyuni

2006-02-16T16:29:00.000+11:00

La Paz

Puno - Salar De Uyuni

2006-02-07T10:16:00.000+11:00

Puno
Lake Titicaca
Amantani and Taquile Islands
La Paz
potosi
Salar De Uyuni

A recount of the past week...

Our journey from Cuzco to Puno was set back a day as there was a strike in Oruro which we pass through on the way. We were held back one night in La Paz but spirits were not dampened as there was more shopping and partying to be done.

We get to our destination, Puno, for an overnight stay before heading to Amantani Island. On the way we visit the Floating Reed Islands of Uros. They are quite a sight. When you walk you sink a little in to the ground. We have a demonstration by some of the local women of the particular island we are on, of how they do business in the buying and selling of produce. After we have visited the reed islands our boat trip sees us to the middle of Lake Titicaca where we stay with families overnight for a homestay and an utterly amazing look into the lives of the locals. We have a quick lesson on the language which is spoken, Quetchan, and practise before meeting our families which have been designated to take us in to their homes.

I found this experience truly unforgettable. Myself and my two room mates had dinner cooked for us by two fourteen year old girls and were shown to our comfortable but small room with the doorway no higher than your shoulder. After dinner there was time for the boys to have a quick soccer match with the locals and then we were all shooed back to our rooms where each one of us was dressed in the traditional attire. The girls had to wear two skirts, a petticoat, a cardigan, a shawl and a traditional hand sewn hat. The boys wore large ponchos over their clothes. Once we were all kitted up we made our way to a large hall with two Peruvian musical groups set up on either side. Each local family gave us a quick instruction on how to dance and then we all tried our best to keep up.

The next day on the boat trip back we stopped off at Taquile Island where I tried King Fish for the first time. It was delicious. Here you will find that the men walk around knitting sweaters and typical woollen hats while the women are off tending the fields.

I found La Paz a very curious place. At first I was overwhelmed by the amount of people milling all over the streets and the traffic which was merciless as you cautiously tried to negotiate a path through the cars jam packed on the roads. We arrived in the afternoon and by the time night came I felt a little more accustomed to this new way of life. We had dinner at a great restaurant called Mungo´s and at 10.30 a live Cuban band played. Very enjoyable and it was good to get a feel for yet another type of traditional music.

During our second day in La Paz we each had the option of doing a 3 hour city tour or a full day bicycle ride down ´Death Road´. This is most dangerous road in the world and not for the faint at heart. It is a steep ride down a mountain while cars and trucks came from the opposite direction, forcing you to veer as far to the side as you can so as not to be sent hurtling off the edge. I opted for the city tour as I did not fancy this dare devilish excursion. The people from our group thankfully made it back with no injuries and have t-shirts and a CD to show just how brave they were for doing it.

On the city tour the first stop was the museum, then on to the Witches Market where some of the most revolting things I have ever seen were on display. These included llama foetuses, bones, dead cats and other such lifeless objects of some description. We then went to the ´Moon Valley´ with its strange rock formations of varying colours, shaped by the weather. We also saw the highest golf course in the world where it costs $80 to tee off...

We travel on to Potosi, where a half day excursion sees us to the Potosi Mines. On the way we passed through the miners market where we purchased coca leaves, fizzy drink and sticks of dynamite (!) for gifts to the miners. We geared up in protective clothing, boots, a hard hat and a power pack round our waists with a head lamp attached to our hard hats before setting off again for the mines. It was all very interesting, bending over not to hit your head on the low roof, but a little eerie to think just how far underground you were. We witnessed a stuffed lion being blown up by 4 sticks of dynamite, what a show.

Yesterday we made our way to the Salt Flats in Uyuni. I have heard this is supposed to be quite a spectacle. When we got there, to our dismay, we saw that it was flooded. Although, on further inspection, we realised just how beautiful what we saw in front of us really was. With about a foot of water immersing the salt there were perfect reflections of the clouds and sky above making for some fantastic photos. Lunch was prepared for us, we sat there and enjoyed chicken, pasta and salad while the salt crystallised on our legs. On the way back we sat on top of our 4 wheel drives for a thrilling ride across the flats which were actually drying out at a rapid rate.

Tomorrow we leave for Argentina. I have a fourteen hour drive to look forward to. We will then be free camping before we arrive in Salta.

The week has definitely been busy and I look forward to more Altiplano adventures!

Louisa

2006-01-27T16:07:00.000+11:00

The breathtaking Machu Picchu

2006-01-27T16:06:00.000+11:00

The cloudy mountains of Machu Picchu

2006-01-27T16:00:00.000+11:00

The group at the beginning of the Inca Trail

THE INCA TRAIL & MACHU PICCHU

2006-01-26T16:00:00.000+11:00

DAY 1:

Upon my arrival in the heart of the Andes mountains I can’t help but feel an overwhelming sense of astonishment that I am actually about to trek through these peaks rising thousands of kilometres above me, their tips enveloped in clouds. It is 10am and the air is fresh and has that early morning dewy feel. The river which flows at a steady pace is loud but soothing. My heart beats faster with adrenaline. I am ready for this physical and mental challenge.

It is an easy walking day with lots of opportunities for photos of the magnificent flora and fauna which we pass on our way up the mountains. We stop for lunch around midday and are treated to a fantastic meal freshly cooked by the porters. None of us can believe we are eating such fine food which has been carried by these extremely fit people for our benefit. We are all very grateful for the soup, tea, rice and vegetables which we are served. A few more hours walking sees us to our campsite where we stay for the night. Equipped with a soccer pitch and facilities we are happy trekkers satisfied with the days walk and ready for tomorrow’s adventure.

DAY 2:

We rise early and after breakfast have a quick briefing about the days walk from our guide, Julio. He advises us to put coca leaves in our bottles of water as today we will be trekking over the highest point in this journey, known as ´Dead Woman’s Pass´.

The walk is steep and arduous. I feel the blood coursing through my body and warming me, my face glowing as I sweat out any toxins which have manifested inside me. I find I have to concentrate on keeping my breathing regular and not panic over the lack of oxygen which is failing to reach my lungs.

The rain has set in. I am walking at a steady pace with a few others in the group. We are tackling the steep steps head on, stopping every 40 steps, never looking up to see how much further we have to go, only looking down to see how far we have come. It is an ongoing battle but we are all motivating each other to keep going.

We have reached the top. In the background I vaguely hear the sounds of the people who have also made it to the top cheering on the people who are still struggling up the mountain. I am oblivious. Looking down I feel elated just visualising the thousands of metres I have come to get here. I am not sure if it is tears on my face or just the rain sending droplets down my cheeks but I know that this feeling is indescribable. I feel fitter and healthier than I have ever felt before Standing at one of the highest peaks in the Andes mountains I know this memory will stay with me forever. Such a sense of accomplishment.

With shaky legs we walk for another couple of hours downhill to our campsite where steaming hot mugs and popcorn (!) await. We spend an hour recuperating in the large dining tent before we drop off one by one to our tents for a much needed siesta before dinner. A few hours later I am back in bed again, exhausted and yet for tomorrow’s new adventure.

DAY 3:

I awake with aching calves and a stiff back. I feel good in comparison to how I thought I would feel. Today is another relatively easy walking day. We travel mostly downwards, coming across steep steps. I feel the necessity of my bamboo stick to aid me down the steep ravines. It is quite scary having to turn sideways as you negotiate your way down slippery steps with steep drops either side. I focus solely on the steps directly in front of me, staring intently down at my feet I choose to have no peripheral vision.

After 6 hours of walking we have once again made it to our campsite. Everyone is relieved to still be able to walk and we are all eagerly anticipating tomorrow’s final walk, which will see us to the sun gate, and finally Machu Picchu.

DAY 4:

We are woken by the porters at 3:20am to get ready for breakfast at 4. We spend an hour groggily sitting round the breakfast table in the large tent which has been erected. We arrive at 5 to the first checkpoint, beating the other groups but having to wait there for an hour for the officer to arrive.

Our trek to the Sun Gate begins at 6. We arrive at the sun gate at around 7 and everyone’s face drops as our vision is obscured through the fog and mist. The rain over the last couple of days has left the valley in a haze, disabling us from seeing anything at all. I stay positive and will the clouds to shift by the time we reach Machu Picchu.

One hour later I am just minutes away from the great Inca ruins. As I predicted the clouds have slowly but surely moved on, and just as if curtains are being pulled aside, we are given our first glimpse of Machu Picchu. It is a stunning site. Everyone is commenting on how much larger they are than expected. From our vantage point we have a view of the entire valley spread before us. Julio takes us on a guided tour where we learn about the ruins, spot llamas traipsing about the valley and soak up the warm rays of sunshine which have conveniently filtered through the clouds in time for our arrival. I am so relived to have made it and cannot stop my finger, which seems to be possessed as I click, click, click away with my camera. Everyone around me is doing the same.

After we finish up at Machu Picchu we leave for a 45 minute bus ride to Aguas Calientes. We make our way top the hot springs and take the time to sooth our aching muscles in the still, warm waters, reminiscing on the last 4 day’s adventures.

After a 1 1/2 hour train ride and then a 1 hour bus ride last night I am now back in Cuzco, once again listening to the rain pounding hard on the cobblestone floor outside. Tonight we will all have a big group dinner and I foresee that a lot of time on the dance floor in one of the Latino clubs in on the cards.

Tomorrow we leave at 9am to go white water rafting. I am very excited but a little anxious as the water is high and quite fast flowing with the rain plentiful of late. I look forward to another adventure in Peru!

2006-01-24T11:44:00.000+11:00

Me at the Ballestas Islands!

2006-01-24T11:42:00.001+11:00

Ballestas Wildlife

2006-01-24T11:42:00.000+11:00

Mummy at Chauchilla Cemetary

2006-01-24T11:41:00.000+11:00

Guinea Pig...anyone hungry?

2006-01-24T11:39:00.000+11:00

Peruvian Entertainers!

Pisco, Nazca, Arequipa, and Cuzco

2006-01-19T09:52:00.000+11:00

I am currently sitting in the local Tucan office in Cuzco reflecting on the past week’s adventures.

We have been to Huacachina where I am thankful to be telling the tale of my sand boarding experiences which I will not forget for a long time. We hopped in 10 seater dune buggies driven by local Peruvians with a need for speed and who were very skilled at sending us flying over these gigantic dunes at top speeds, making us feel like if we took a turn too fast we would topple end over end although we knew we were safe as they were very skilled drivers and the buggies had metal frames ensuring our safety. It was absolutely exhilarating teetering over the edge of a dune, knowing that stomach dropping sensation was soon to follow. What an adrenaline rush! Some people were brave enough to go down the dunes standing up on their boards which are much like snowboards only smaller. I went down on my stomach. It was great fun.

On arrival in Pisco dined at a Peruvian restaurant where we indulged in the some fantastic seafood. The scallops were divine. We were entertained by a trio of Peruvian instrumentalists playing conga drums. I was enthralled listening to the melodic tunes with the rhythmical beat of the drum carrying them along. The songs were catchy and stuck in my head for days later.

In Nazca there was the option to take the flight over the Nazca lines. This was a very hairy flight with a couple of people green with nausea on the plane and many others having to lie down on the grass afterwards glad to feel the solid ground beneath them. I did not do the flight as I was too scared at the thought of an 8 seater plane with mountains all around, dipping and swerving thousands of metres up in the air.

We camped on the beach in Puerto Inca where I and some of the other girls spent tanning for half a day relaxing with magazines and lots of soft drinks and water before we took a walk along the cliff face for a view of the mountains and the vast spread of water before us. There was a ´Disco-Tec´ which was open to both the locals and the tourists. We had a lot of fun dancing the night away to the different sorts of music they played such as Latino, RnB, trance and some old rock tunes. I practised my salsa and made friends with some Peruvian girls who knew all the words to the Spanish songs that were played. The camp site also had a volleyball net, soccer field, jet skis and sea kayaks so there was never a dull moment during the 2 days we were there.

A 5 1/2 drive took us over the high plain to Arequipa. We were at 4,900 metres and feeling the effects of altitude. The group handled it well, we sipped on mugs of Coca tea and bought packets of coca lollies to take with us on the bus. The altitude leaves you a little light headed and drowsy. I found it was nothing I couldn’t sleep off on the bus. On arrival in Arequipa the group took solace at the thought of the hot springs which were nearby. We were all enthusiastic about a nice warm, giant bathtub which was imminent. There was nothing better after a long bus ride then to immerse in the steamy tranquil waters of the natural hot springs, surrounded by mountains on both sides, doing nothing, thinking about nothing. It was therapeutic. I was in bliss.

I was pleasantly surprised to find Arequipa a quaint little town with interesting structures and beautiful streets which were lovely to walk through at night as the lights of the buildings lit your path. The main square was a spectacle in itself. From a high vantage point, that being the balcony of a cafe or restaurant, you over looked the square with its shops encircling the outside and a park with people milling all around in the middle. We went for dinner at a Peruvian restaurant called Zig Zag where guinea pig and alpaca was on the menu. I tried the alpaca which was quite tasty but could not bare the thought of cutting into a small animal with the head still attached and eating it... One of the adventurous English men of the group who was quite enjoying his meal of guinea pig did not hesitate to swiftly rip the head off, sticking his knife into the skull and scooping out the brains and eating them! It was a horrific sight to watch. I’m surprised I did not have nightmares. He was very sick the next day....

Last night was our first night in Cuzco. I love this city and I know understand why everyone who has been here has raved about it. It is a peaceful, friendly city nestled at around 3,300 metres and surrounded by mountains. The people are warm and friendly, some in their traditional dress with the vibrant colours of their woven fabrics never ceasing to catch your eye. Last night we had dinner at an Irish pub, said to be the highest in the world. The food was very good and very cheap. After dinner we went for a bit of a boogie at a couple of the night clubs. Mixing with both locals and many other tourists, everyone gyrating to the pounding beats of both Latino and R’n’B which could be heard halfway down the street. Mama Africa’s was the hot spot and the highlight of my night. It had a stage and a balcony, a very large conga drum and a DJ set up. I was in my element.

I am now mentally preparing myself for the challenge of the Inca Trail. We leave early tomorrow morning for Ollantaytambo, the Sacred Valley of the Incas and on Saturday we begin our arduous trek through the mountains. I am very much looking forward to it and will report on how I went when I get back to Cuzco.

Ciao

=LOUISA=

2006-01-11T15:39:00.000+11:00

Happy Tucan traveller!

2006-01-11T15:37:00.000+11:00

Me in Lima!

2006-01-11T15:36:00.000+11:00

Lima after dark

2006-01-11T15:35:00.000+11:00

Streets of Lima

2006-01-10T15:26:00.000+11:00

We have made it to Lima and my, what a city it has turned out to be. It was eerily quiet at the airport. There was no mad rush for customs and immigration. Everyone went about their business in a calm and orderly fashion and stood quietly in line waiting to get their passports checked.

I happened to bump in to a few people on the same tour who were all heading to the Kamana Hotel. We all piled in to the minivan and set off. As we got closer towards the city I felt that sensation of calm and peacefulness quickly being demolished by an overwhelming sense of chaos. The traffic was horrendous! Everyone seemed to be oblivious of any courtesy or drivers etiquette. I found myself gripping on to the door handle as the minivan hurtled towards the city centre, weaving in and out of the other cars with no real lanes that could easily be distinguished. It seemed there was only one road rule: honk your horn as loud as you can and hope any other traffic gets out of your way.

I took a short trip up to the Shanty Town today to get a bird’s eye view of the city. This involved a trip in a minivan up a very steep mountain with a sheer drop on either side. We passed through a small town populated with 25,000 extremely impoverished people. It was sad to see the conditions they were leaving in; dilapidated houses, broken roads and no electricity- yet they still looked happy. It gave me some hope that you do not need material possessions and wealth to be content in life.

We went to Miraflores for dinner. I was a little shocked to see that it was so touristy and commercialised. It felt like we had passed into another world when we went from the cultural, historical Lima to the glitz and glam side of Peru. The main promenade overlooks the ocean and is quite pretty at night with all the shops illuminated.

Tomorrow we drive to Paracas and disembark for a boat trip to the Ballestas Islands. Then on to Pisco where I will indulge in many Pisco Sours no doubt.

Peace and Love

Louisa

Yo soy aqui en sur de Americana.

2006-01-06T09:14:00.000+11:00

Yo soy aqui en sur de Americana.

It is 3AM and I am rudely awakened by a brilliant flash of light illuminating my room with an eerie white hue. I count the seconds between each crack of thunder. One thousand, two thous... CRACK! Now I am really awake. Jerked from my slumber as a booming thunderstorm rips viciously at the sky. The sound of thunder resonates round my room and makes my bedside table shake.

I arrived safely in Buenos Aires today after a long 16 hour, sleep deprivated flight. I´m sure I was not a pretty sight as I trudged bleary eyed through the departures teminal to await my transfer to my hostel.

In the taxi with my small backpack wedged between my legs and all the windows locked I hungrily take in the sights and sounds of this magical city. I roll down my window just a fraction and inhale. I smell food! The air is not thick with pollution or smog but instead of the aromas of late afternoon meals being prepared for lunch by local families. The air is clean and fresh here. As indicative of the cities´ name.

After settling in at the Hostel I hear something calling me. It is my bed. With my eyes like slits and my head feeling like a lead weight I succumb to the calls of my bed and immediately fall into a deep slumber. Jetlag 1, Louisa 0.

I awake 3 hours later, shower and freshen up before heading out for a stroll around the city centre. I am in the suburb of San Telmo. The main street is lined with shops and banks and I find it easy to negotiate my way around. The people seem lovely. I feel compelled to give everyone a smile, greeting shop owners with a pleasant "Buenos Dias!" as i buy bottles of water and a hearty lunch at Subway. I figure I will try the local cuisine later this evening.

I take my time wandering around this friendly city. As darkness becomes imminent I decide to head back to my hostel. On the other side of the road is a cafe called El Cafe Continente. The shop front describes it as "The Musical Cafe". I am intrigued. I stroll in to find a welcoming atmosphere. The staff greet me warmly as I take a seat and study the menu. I am excited to test out my Spanish on the waittress who serves me. I find myself holding a conversation with her and placing my order without a glitch.

At the front of the room there are musical instruments set up ready for the nights entertainment. I notice on my table a schedule for the upcoming performances. Tonight the Carla Fernanda Trio are playing. A woman steps up with her arms full of accordion. A man with an electric acoustic guitar twangs at a few strings, checking it is in tune. A second man steps up to the mic and warbles out a scale, warming up his vocal chords. Then the music begins. I am transfixed. I sit with my coffee and empanadas and enjoy the sounds of the typically South AMerican music. I look on with interest during the on-stage banter, pretending I know what they are talking about.

Their set finishes 45 minutes later. I pay my bill and stroll across to my hostel. It has been a long day and I look forward to relaxing with my book in bed.

So there it is. My first day in Buenos Aires is over. The storm has subsided now. I am listening to the sound of raindrops pattering lightly down on the footpth outside, the only sound coming from my room is the scratching of pen on paper.

Buenos Noches and I will write again soon.

Twas the week before Christmas...

2005-12-22T11:12:00.000+11:00

We here in the office are getting ready to bid farewell to little Louisa, who will soon be jetting off on a 45 day South American journey from Lima to Rio de Janeiro, just in time for Carnival! Fits of jealousy aside, we will miss our sparkly Reservations chickita heaps, but thankfully, she will be keeping us informed of everything she gets up to. From her travelling companions, to her tour leaders, and spunky Brazilian boys she meets along the way, Louisa will keep us informed of the best bits of her tour! Stay tuned for her departure, on january 10...