Thursday, January 26, 2006

THE INCA TRAIL & MACHU PICCHU

DAY 1:

Upon my arrival in the heart of the Andes mountains I can’t help but feel an overwhelming sense of astonishment that I am actually about to trek through these peaks rising thousands of kilometres above me, their tips enveloped in clouds. It is 10am and the air is fresh and has that early morning dewy feel. The river which flows at a steady pace is loud but soothing. My heart beats faster with adrenaline. I am ready for this physical and mental challenge.

It is an easy walking day with lots of opportunities for photos of the magnificent flora and fauna which we pass on our way up the mountains. We stop for lunch around midday and are treated to a fantastic meal freshly cooked by the porters. None of us can believe we are eating such fine food which has been carried by these extremely fit people for our benefit. We are all very grateful for the soup, tea, rice and vegetables which we are served. A few more hours walking sees us to our campsite where we stay for the night. Equipped with a soccer pitch and facilities we are happy trekkers satisfied with the days walk and ready for tomorrow’s adventure.

DAY 2:

We rise early and after breakfast have a quick briefing about the days walk from our guide, Julio. He advises us to put coca leaves in our bottles of water as today we will be trekking over the highest point in this journey, known as ´Dead Woman’s Pass´.

The walk is steep and arduous. I feel the blood coursing through my body and warming me, my face glowing as I sweat out any toxins which have manifested inside me. I find I have to concentrate on keeping my breathing regular and not panic over the lack of oxygen which is failing to reach my lungs.

The rain has set in. I am walking at a steady pace with a few others in the group. We are tackling the steep steps head on, stopping every 40 steps, never looking up to see how much further we have to go, only looking down to see how far we have come. It is an ongoing battle but we are all motivating each other to keep going.

We have reached the top. In the background I vaguely hear the sounds of the people who have also made it to the top cheering on the people who are still struggling up the mountain. I am oblivious. Looking down I feel elated just visualising the thousands of metres I have come to get here. I am not sure if it is tears on my face or just the rain sending droplets down my cheeks but I know that this feeling is indescribable. I feel fitter and healthier than I have ever felt before Standing at one of the highest peaks in the Andes mountains I know this memory will stay with me forever. Such a sense of accomplishment.

With shaky legs we walk for another couple of hours downhill to our campsite where steaming hot mugs and popcorn (!) await. We spend an hour recuperating in the large dining tent before we drop off one by one to our tents for a much needed siesta before dinner. A few hours later I am back in bed again, exhausted and yet for tomorrow’s new adventure.

DAY 3:

I awake with aching calves and a stiff back. I feel good in comparison to how I thought I would feel. Today is another relatively easy walking day. We travel mostly downwards, coming across steep steps. I feel the necessity of my bamboo stick to aid me down the steep ravines. It is quite scary having to turn sideways as you negotiate your way down slippery steps with steep drops either side. I focus solely on the steps directly in front of me, staring intently down at my feet I choose to have no peripheral vision.

After 6 hours of walking we have once again made it to our campsite. Everyone is relieved to still be able to walk and we are all eagerly anticipating tomorrow’s final walk, which will see us to the sun gate, and finally Machu Picchu.

DAY 4:

We are woken by the porters at 3:20am to get ready for breakfast at 4. We spend an hour groggily sitting round the breakfast table in the large tent which has been erected. We arrive at 5 to the first checkpoint, beating the other groups but having to wait there for an hour for the officer to arrive.

Our trek to the Sun Gate begins at 6. We arrive at the sun gate at around 7 and everyone’s face drops as our vision is obscured through the fog and mist. The rain over the last couple of days has left the valley in a haze, disabling us from seeing anything at all. I stay positive and will the clouds to shift by the time we reach Machu Picchu.

One hour later I am just minutes away from the great Inca ruins. As I predicted the clouds have slowly but surely moved on, and just as if curtains are being pulled aside, we are given our first glimpse of Machu Picchu. It is a stunning site. Everyone is commenting on how much larger they are than expected. From our vantage point we have a view of the entire valley spread before us. Julio takes us on a guided tour where we learn about the ruins, spot llamas traipsing about the valley and soak up the warm rays of sunshine which have conveniently filtered through the clouds in time for our arrival. I am so relived to have made it and cannot stop my finger, which seems to be possessed as I click, click, click away with my camera. Everyone around me is doing the same.

After we finish up at Machu Picchu we leave for a 45 minute bus ride to Aguas Calientes. We make our way top the hot springs and take the time to sooth our aching muscles in the still, warm waters, reminiscing on the last 4 day’s adventures.

After a 1 1/2 hour train ride and then a 1 hour bus ride last night I am now back in Cuzco, once again listening to the rain pounding hard on the cobblestone floor outside. Tonight we will all have a big group dinner and I foresee that a lot of time on the dance floor in one of the Latino clubs in on the cards.

Tomorrow we leave at 9am to go white water rafting. I am very excited but a little anxious as the water is high and quite fast flowing with the rain plentiful of late. I look forward to another adventure in Peru!

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